The holy city of Varanasi is the spiritual and cultural capital of India. It is a global center of attraction for its rich history and traditions. Varanasi: City Immersed in Prayer is a compilation of images captured by David Scheinbaum. The book’s cover captivated me because it depicts the rituals of Chhath Puja, a Hindu festival in which the Sun is worshipped. It originated in Bihar (a state in North India) and is considered one of the most eco-friendly Hindu festivals. The rituals of Chhath Puja appear frequently throughout the book. In the introduction, Scheinbaum discusses his interest in Varanasi, first as a pilgrim and later as a photographer.
The book is centered mainly around the ghāts (riverside) of the Ganges, considered holy by the Hindus. Scheinbaum has an eye for details and strives to present sacred rituals without a colored Western lens. From the image of a sadhu meditating on the ghāts to pilgrims performing suryanamaskār (saluting the Sun), he has meticulously portrayed the essence of the spirituality surrounding the river. He takes us into the narrow alleys to show the locals’ lifestyle alongside the revered wandering cows. Varanasi is incomplete without taking the name of Shiva (one of the three deities in the trinity of the Hindu pantheon), as it is his favorite city. The picture of the devotees worshipping the Shiva lingam on the ghāts is a testament to this belief.
The photographs of women performing the rituals of Chhath Puja are a major highlight in the book. The vibrant colors of the festival are enhanced by the sindoor (vermilion) on the forehead of women who stand mid-waist in the river. The significance of the river is implied in every scene. During the Pitṛ Pakṣa, the pilgrims take a dip in the Ganges to purify themselves and perform rites for their dead ancestors. From the celebration of the festivals to the celebration of death, in Varanasi, it is believed that anyone who dies here acquires moksha or ultimate liberation from the cycle of rebirth. Scheinbaum takes us to the cremation ghāts of Manikarnikā and Harishchandra, where dead bodies are cremated in accordance with Hindu ritual practice. He tries to project that death is not considered an antithesis to life in Varanasi. Many times, people who visit the place fail to understand the fascination among Indians (primarily elderly) who wish to die in this city. It is often asserted that nowhere else in the world do people share such a close relationship with the dead. The bodies are cremated traditionally at Manikarnikā, whereas on Harishchandra ghāt, dead bodies are cremated in an electric crematorium. This contrast between traditional and modern ways of cremation indicates that the city is not averse to the idea of adaptation.
The feet of Vishnu at Manikarnikā Kund (136) instills a belief that Varanasi is not just a city of the mortals, since the gods descend to bless the city. This is followed by notes on the photographs by Michael Ianuzielo. Most of the captions help in understanding the significance of the pictures. However, there are some errors I would like to point out, such as one on page 6: lighting diya in the Ganges is a part of our tradition and not a new practice at all. On page 17, a man offers cloth and flowers to his dead ancestors, not to God. Also on page 23, a man gives food to the fish in the Ganges. On pages 60-61, lamps are lit during the month of Kartik (October-November) since it is believed that light helps the dead ancestors to reach heaven. These lamps are lit at a high altitude and are called Akash Deep (sky lamps). Overall, the descriptions are apt and will help readers in analyzing the context of each picture.
In conclusion, the image of the tilted Ratneshwar Mahadev temple gives a mystic touch to the book. It is a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva that is submerged underwater throughout the year but stands unharmed. The last picture is that of a statue at Pisāch Mochan, where people perform rituals to appease the souls of their dead ancestors. The cycle of life and death continues, and so does the relationship between the living and the dead. In this book, Scheinbaum has captured the rich civilization that emerged on the banks of the Ganges. Anyone interested in Varanasi or Indian culture in general should consider consulting this book. It will serve as an introduction to the city, its culture, and the scenic beauty of the ghāts.
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[Review length: 756 words • Review posted on April 12, 2024]