This book is part of a five-volume series, Food Cultures in America, which seeks to introduce readers to the major food cultures that make up the diversity of the American cuisine. This specific volume is focused on the culinary contributions of Latino cultures, giving unique insight and understanding into the ever-growing Latino diaspora through their foodways. The release of this book comes at a particularly salient time, for in 2010, UNESCO officially recognized the cuisine of Mexico, as well as the cuisine of France, as an intangible cultural heritage worthy of preservation, which marks the first year that the cuisine of any country has been given such a distinction. More poignantly, however, this book firmly situates Latino food culture within an American framework, and with the recent passing of controversial immigration legislation that has made national headlines and has helped to engender ill-will towards Latinos, the largest minority population in the United States, it becomes ever more important to take notice and celebrate the contributions of the Latino community to the distinct cultural landscape of this country.
Any aspect of culture can be used as a doorway into understanding a community, but the study of foodways has a unique advantage. Food is a necessity, it is a pleasure, in many instances it is a communal event, and it is often one of the last aspects of culture to be completely lost due to factors such as hegemony, acculturation, and assimilation. Certain food practices of the Arawaks of the Caribbean, for instance, continue on even though the population no longer exists. The study of foodways, when done properly, can give us a sense of history, environment, beliefs, medicinal practices, and social structures. Food certainly has a talent for inserting itself into nearly every facet of our daily lives, and Zilkia Janer expertly explores the multifaceted and culturally layered meanings present within every dish served up on the Latino table.
The structure of this book follows the standard format present in all five volumes. The book begins with a foreword written by the general editor, Ken Albala, followed by the author’s acknowledgements, a brief introduction, and a chronology. The bulk of the book is separated into seven primary sections: Historical Overview, Major Foods and Ingredients, Cooking, Meals, Eating Out, Special Occasions, and Diet and Health. The book is then rounded out by a resource guide, a bibliography, and an index. Interlaced throughout are line drawings and photographs, as well as recipes for dishes that are mentioned within the text, usually appearing at the end of corresponding subsections. The information presented comes from historical texts, intermixed with ethnographic accounts, providing a wonderful context with which to understand the socio-cultural aspects of food.
Janer prefaces her discussion on Latino food culture by introducing the complexities and inherent heterogeneity of Latinos, citing the term as a classification created in the United States to refer to people who can trace their origins and cultural heritage to Spanish- and Portuguese-speaking countries from Latin America and the Caribbean. She makes a clear distinction between Latino (a U.S. construct), Latin American, and pan-Latino cultures, and is consistent in adroitly navigating the boundaries between these classifications.
The core of her book begins by looking at the rich variety of the Amerindian diets of Mexico, the Caribbean, Central America, and South America. Each region is treated separately and includes information on the arrival of the Spanish, the introduction of foreign foods, moments of political strife that spawned emigration from these regions, the relocation of these people to the United States, and dissemination of these food practices within this new venue. Every historical event mentioned is clearly contextualized and helps the reader understand the way in which the food traditions of the Amerindians adapted and changed in response to contact with cultures that viewed the Amerindian cuisine as inferior.
Janer then moves the discussion into looking at the ways in which Latin American cuisines have been adapted within the United States. Although other scholars have argued that assimilation and acculturation have been causing the slow disappearance of Latin American food in the US, Janer points out that what is occurring in this country can be seen as a case of transculturation, where rather than losing a cuisine, a new one is developing: a Latino cuisine that is as diverse as the regions of Latin America that served as the impetus for it.
Janer rounds the book out by looking at the commodification of Latino food within the U.S., focusing on how large supermarket chains have reached out to the Latino demographics and on how fast food retailers have capitalized on Latino cuisine. While such inclusion of Latino foodways into the larger U.S. culture can be seen as a positive sign, one of acceptance, there is a sad twinge in the explication of this information. The diet of Amerindian and subsequent Latin American populations has relied heavily on fresh fruits, vegetables, and grains at every meal, with a smaller, daily helping of seafood, poultry, and dairy; red meats and sweets were eaten rarely. In the U.S., however, environmental factors prevent the ready availability of region-specific produce, and economic factors faced by many lower-income Latinos do not allow them the time to make many traditional dishes from scratch or the resources to purchase healthier alternatives. Instead, they rely on the pre-made and processed ingredients and dishes available at supermarkets. Conversely, while Latino fast food is a lucrative industry, very few Latinos own any of these large-scale operations.
In all, this book displays an extraordinary knowledge of Latino foodways as well as of Latino history and culture. The only downside of this book is that information, such as the basic composition of certain dishes or specific food preparation processes, tends to be repeated in numerous sections. This is a benefit for people who are looking for specific information within the text and will only read one section, but for students of foodways, it is an inconvenience that detracts from the core principles being discussed. Since there is an exhaustive glossary present within the book, there should be no need for such repetition. This, however, does not detract from the elegance of the book. It is clear, it is accessible, and it is enjoyable.
Latino Food Culture is an excellent addition to any library and is a must-read for all scholars interested in American foodways; after all, a Latino cuisine, the Mexican-American cuisine of the Southwest, is the oldest regional cuisine in the country. In addition, this book is also a valuable resource for Latinos who want to rediscover their own culinary history and understand the cuisines of other Latino populations. In a more practical manner, the recipes present within the book, paired with detailed and contextually relevant information, provide a great way to fully understand and create delicious meals, as I plan to do later on today.
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[Review length: 1141 words • Review posted on May 19, 2011]