Rosemary and Time: Slow Food and the Folklore of Taste “Lo slow-food è allegria, lo fast-food è isteria” (Portinari 1987:25).

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Jeffrey Howard

Abstract

In the early 1980s, Carlo Petrini, a resident of Bra, Italy, and a few of his colleagues and friends began a gastronomic revolution that came to be called the Slow Food movement. Petrini felt that invasive institutions like McDonalds and other fast food organizations imposed a type of culinary colonization in the place of traditional attitudes and values toward local cuisine. Because of global trends of food standardization, such as the creation of chain restaurants that serve the same sort of cuisine regardless of location, Petrini decided it was time to rejuvenate, restore, and even resurrect traditional foods—meats, cheeses, seeds, nuts, vegetables, fruits, and wines—made by local artisans. He purposed protecting these foods against extinction, celebrating the cultures from which they derive, and educating the public about the art of taste and the process of local food production.


In this research note I suggest that Slow Food’s organization and methodologies fall in the realm of applied folklore, which, as David Hufford states, “most usefully refers to the application of knowledge from folklore studies to the solution of practical problems” (Hufford 1998:25).

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Research Essays, Notes, & Queries